Best jewellery at the Autumn/Winter 2023 fashion shows

By Kim Parker

Spring may have barely even sprung, but over in fashion land designers and editors are already thinking ahead to Autumn/Winter 2023. With the end of Paris fashion week bringing the current raft of runway presentations to a close, we’ve been struck by several standout jewellery trends so far. The overriding mood? If you’re going to wear jewellery at all this coming autumn/winter, better go big or go home.

Here, we select the oversized pieces from the shows we’re coveting right now.

Balmain

Forget dainty. Oversized was the order of the day at Balmain, with enormous hoop earrings, XL rows of crystals laid along hair partings and huge pearl pieces. Indeed, pearls proved so popular, they were even worked into embellished vests to adorn models’ bodies.

Chanel

Signature motifs loomed large at Chanel for Autumn/Winter. Layered chains, slim ropes of pearls (worn at the ears, the neck and even the waist) and modern riffs on the house’s floral emblem, the camellia, are what to expect next season.

Chloé

Baroque pearls ruled over Chloé’s ultra-feminine runway. Kate Moss’ daughter, Lila Moss, walked the show in a necklace-meets-body jewel strung with dozens of them. Elsewhere, they dangled from earlobes as chic statement earrings. Power cuffs are making a comeback, too, as seen in several other shows this season.

Dior

The accessories at Dior’s Autumn/Winter 2023 show had definite ‘Wednesday Addams goes regal’ vibes. Collars, chokers and crowns all made a big impact – all slightly softened with luminous pearls instead of studs and natural materials instead of metal.

Dolce & Gabbana

Big things were also happening over at Dolce & Gabbana. Huge, 80s-inflected statement earrings shaped like metal discs, with or without baroque pearl drops, drew all eyes upwards. Meanwhile, necks were adorned with glittering metallic torque necklaces in both gold and silver colourways.

Fendi

Fendi’s show was, quite literally, inspired by itself – or rather, the insouciant styling of family member Delfina Delettrez Fendi. Its jewellery, which Delettrez Fendi designs, was also inspired by the family name – with its letters written in gold across wrists or reinterpreted as double Fs as graphic, asymmetric earrings.

Gucci

Pearls of all sizes dominated the looks at Gucci this season. From petite pearls secured with crystal clips and strung across the body, to collars of perfectly-matched round gems and large, mismatched baroques on earrings – Gucci proved pearls are definitely here to stay.

Louis Vuitton

The models’ hands definitely did all the heavy lifting when it came to jewellery at Louis Vuitton. Big gold rings on every finger, embellished with the brand’s four-petalled floral symbol, added a punkish edge to each look, whilst also drawing attention to all of the covetable new handbags that made an appearance, too.

Saint Laurent

Oversized cuffs, worn singly or in pairs, added a touch of toughness against the satin fabrics at Saint Laurent’s show. Paired with XL hoops and aviator shades, there was certainly an air of Top Gun Maverick to the whole look.

Schiaparelli

True to form, Daniel Roseberry brought a surrealist flair to his first ready-to-wear collection for Schiaparelli. The couture-like, sculptural designs were paired with suitably sculptural and oversized accessories, including glittering mussel-shell collars, question mark necklaces shaped like blooming flowers and cuffs embossed with keyhole motifs, all in gilded metal.

Simone Rocha

Whether held as a clutch, strung into chandelier earrings, knotted into capes or slung onto belt chains, pearls in all shapes and sizes proved irresistible again at Simone Rocha. The only other accessory honoured as much on this runway? Satin ribbons.

Valentino

More was definitely more at Valentino. Hoops were chunky, crystals were super sized and every space for a gold ring on a model’s face found itself adorned. Think lip rings, ear cuffs, nose rings…and even the space between a model’s eyes.

Vivienne Westwood

Andreas Kronthaler’s first show without the inimitable Vivienne Westwood was a loving tribute to the punk priestess’ enduring impact on the fashion industry. The accessories were no different. Gold pig earrings. Chokers set with enormous pearly studs. Chains embellished with natural motifs. And Westwood’s granddaughter, Cora Corré, closing the show in a glittering horned headband. It was a little bit of rock and roll and it was perfect.

Like this? Check out the high jewellery to covet this season