The SS25 fashion week shows have thrown us some exciting jewellery moments to note for next season. From piles of pearls to bouquets of metallic flowers, oversized everything (including earrings, cuffs and pendants) and the return of Boho-inflected beads, we take a look at the outstanding accessories that will be heading our way in spring/summer 2025…
Valentino’s facial adornments
While jewellery-loving Alessandro Michele’s much-anticipated show at the helm of Valentino gave us plenty of covetable eye candy in the form of maximalist earrings, XL chains and layers upon layers of beaded necklaces and pearls, it was the lip and nostril jewels that most captured our imaginations. Juxtaposed with his gauzy, lady-like and often frilled designs for the house, they added a punkish edge that prevented the collection from feeling overly nostalgic and sweet.
Stella McCartney’s collaboration with 886 by The Royal Mint
Inspired by a book of essays on climate change by the author (and keen birdwatcher) Jonathan Franzen entitled “The End of the End of The Earth”, Stella McCartney collaborated with British jewellery firm 886 by The Royal Mint on a flock of golden doves to accessorise her SS 2025 presentation.
Fluttering on necklaces around models’ necks or chests, the sustainably-produced pieces were a ‘call to action’ for the preservation of our feathered wildlife, crafted with recycled materials. Dominic Jones, creative director at The Royal Mint, hand-carved wax models of the abstract doves, which were then cast in gold and silver repurposed from electronic and medical waste (including old X-rays, which would otherwise have been sent to landfill).
Gucci’s bamboo torques
Gucci’s bamboo motif first appeared in 1947, as post-war Italy struggled with sourcing materials and the label’s inventive design team looked to Japan – with its readily available stocks of bamboo – to furnish its latest bags with elegant wooden handles. Over 70 years later, the motif is still going strong at Gucci, now reinvented as metal or enamel-coated torque necklaces (and arm bands, and cuff bracelets) for spring/summer 2025.
Dolce & Gabbana’s 90s style crucifixes
Inspired by Madonna’s iconic ‘Bonde Ambition’ touring wardrobe – think platinum wigs, conical bras, corsets and heaps of satin and lace – Dolce & Gabbana added an extra dollop of glamour to their show with early 90s-style crucifixes. It was a look that got the Queen of Pop’s personal approval, as she applauded the duo’s efforts from the front row, clad head-to-toe in one of their outfits including an ornate high jewellery necklace.
Moschino’s XL earring-necklaces
Super long earrings-cum-necklaces were an unusual, but not unwelcome, addition to Moschino’s SS 25 presentation at Milan fashion week. The hybrid accessories were crafted out large, luminous pearls – still the gemstone of the moment – and added an interesting edge to the show, which featured plenty of tailored pieces and a distinct city-meets-the-country vibe.
A similar, more wearable version of the accessory was spotted at Alaïa’s catwalk show, made from lengths of fine gold chain.
Off White’s face-framing airplane earrings
Brooklyn Bridge Park’s basketball courts were transformed into an urban runway for Off White’s spring/summer 25 show, complete with sports-loving celebrities including rapper Flavor Flav, tennis stars Aryna Sabalenka and Frances Tiafoe and Olympic gymnast Suni Lee. Entitled ‘Duty Free’, the show was filled with sportswear references, contrasted with oversized silver earrings and metallic pendants that, from the front, appeared to be artsy sculptures but from the side were revealed to be (surprisingly face-framing) miniature airplanes.
Sculptural pearls and silver at Completedworks
Presented as ‘a micro-play in three acts’ instead of a regular runway show, Completedworks’ SS25 presentation was a riot of gleaming accessories, including layers and layers of pearls (as seen on model Lily Cole) and a grid-like metal collar and cuffs (as seen on actress and singer Dianna Agron), juxtaposing fluidity with solidness, and lightness with weightiness.
Ralph Lauren’s Boho beads
With piles of beads, pearls, shells and turquoise cabochons, Ralph Lauren‘s accessories were a real highlight of his New York fashion week show, which spoke of summery getaways to the plains and to the coast. It seems that (whisper it) boho may actually be back in style…
Kim Shui’s bold bloom necklaces
Florals? For spring? In the hands of designer Kim Shui, these blooms did actually look groundbreaking. Crafted like shimmering silver leis, Shui’s metallic question-mark necklaces looked amazing on both male and female models and will doubtless be adorning a cocktail outfit at a high-profile party next season. You read it here first.
Roberto Cavalli’s marine-themed accessories
The oversized anchor chain necklaces, swordfish-shaped pendants and earrings and rope-like adornments at Roberto Cavalli’s show were all inspired by the sea. More specifically, the dramatic stretto (‘strait’) by the city of Messina (where designer Fausto Puglisi grew up), which connects Sicily to the rest of mainland Italy.
Ahluwalia’s pearly arm bands
For her SS 25 show during London Fashion Week, entitled ‘Home Sweet Home’, designer Priya Ahluwalia collaborated with Pandora on layer-able pieces as a tribute to Indian-Nigerian traditions and art. The pieces were all custom made, including dramatic body veils and cool armbands created with cultured, freshwater pearls; collarbone-grazing necklaces in 14k gold and colourful crystals, and dainty stacking rings.
Joyful, pretty pearls at 3.1 Phillip Lim
For his 20th anniversary show at New York Fashion Week, entitled “Memories of Joy”, designer Phillip Lim collaborated with Thai-Swiss jewellery label Pacharee on a collection of layered necklaces, drop earrings, removable initial pendants (seen on anklets, but can be worn as handbag charms) and multi-strand hoop earrings, all featuring Pacharee’s signature baroque and cornflake-shaped pearls.
Collina Strada’s ethereal-yet-earthy adornments
Entitled “Touch Grass”, Collina Strada’s SS25 show during New York fashion week was a timely reminder of Mother Nature’s ability to help humanity reconnect and to heal. As such, her accessories had a punky feeling to them that contrasted well against her sheer, pastel-tinted fabrics and floaty dresses. Spiky collars resembled silvery branches of thorns, stud earrings channelled starfish-like creatures while Brat green daisy necklaces and blinged out wallet chains added a dash of 90s insouciance, as worn by the infamous Green Lady of Brooklyn, who modelled during the show.
Like this? Discover the standout jewels from this year’s Primetime Emmy Awards
Want more? Sign up to our newsletter
