Cartier reinvents the Tank and Pasha at Watches and Wonders

Cartier has delighted fans with a bounty of exciting new releases for 2022, from the gem-set Coussin de Cartier to a blacked-out Tank as well as new versions of the Pasha and the Santos

With the world’s most iconic brands gathered in one place, all eyes were on Geneva at the 2022 Watches and Wonders convention. Debuting a bounty of exciting new releases, French jeweller Cartier stole the show with an assortment of covetable pieces, from killer shapes to unexpected iterations of timeless classics.

Kicking off a slate of new designs for the year is the brand’s latest interpretation of the skeleton watch: the Cartier Fine Watchmaking Masse Mystérieuse. 

The result of nearly eight years of work at the Cartier Manufacture, the automatic, time-only wristwatch is unmistakably Cartier in style, with fully polished sword-shaped hands and a ruby cabochon crown. Bringing together two of the House’s watchmaking signatures, the mysterious movement and the skeleton, the watch movement is automatically wound via rotor, as automatic movements typically are. However, for the Masse Mystérieuse, Cartier has used a limited-slip differential system to place the movement within its winding rotor, hiding its connection to the crown. In doing so, the Masse Mystérieuse pulls off one of the most magical and dramatic visual feats in modern watchmaking and makes for a truly one-of-a-kind experience on the wrist.

Cartier Masse Mystérieuse
Cartier Masse Mystérieuse

Accompanying the new Masse Mystérieuse is a new variation of Cartier’s beloved Tank Chinoise timepiece. Inspired by Chinese savoir-faire, the new design features an open-worked rectangular dial. Sparkling in black and red lacquer, the stunningly intricate dial reveals the workings of the 9627 MC skeleton movement, developed by Cartier exclusively for this Tank Chinoise.

The new releases don’t stop there, however. The heritage jeweller further delighted fans with three new monochrome dials for their ever-popular Tank Louis Cartier collection: red, the Maison’s signature colour, anthracite grey and an intense black. In addition to this, the iconic design has been further refined: from the twelve classic hour marks, just four remain and the rail track is absent. 

The iconic Pasha de Cartier collection, hailing from the 1980s, reaffirms its status as a one-of-a-kind timepiece with several new interpretations. The first, the Pasha de Cartier Grille, boasts a removable grid over the dial, inspired by a 1943 watertight piece with a protective grid. The second is a series of three collectable pendants that can be clipped onto the crown cover of the Pasha. Inspired by the Maison’s historic charms, the designs come in a double C, heart and eye motif. The third set of technical Pashas – the Moonphase, Skeleton and Flying Tourbillon – are developed and produced at the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. The Moonphase depicts the movement in the shape of a circle surrounded by a midnight-blue planisphere laden with stars and comes equipped with the Manufacture 1904 LU MC movement. The Skeleton features the beautiful 9524MC calibre and oversized Arabic numerals. Meanwhile, the Flying Tourbillon, fitted with Cartier Fine Watchmaking’s signature 9552 MC calibre, dazzles with a cage signed with a C. 

Pasha de Cartier
Pasha de Cartier yellow gold

Elsewhere, the Santos-Dumont collection adds three new versions. These colour variations range from burgundy and platinum, beige and gold to black and steel, each coated with a thin layer of lacquer, then smoothed and polished by hand. There is also the new Santos de Cartier, with a bezel in blue PVD and dials in white or blue.

Cartier Santos
Cartier santos

Uniting the intricacies of watchmaking and high jewellery is the made-for-evening timepiece, Coussin de Cartier. Available in gold and diamond as well as two-tone variations studded with inverted coloured stones, the eye-popping design features a cushion-shaped case that flaunts over 1,000 gems accompanied by a white gold mesh that took over 22 hours to be 3D printed. 

Coussin de Cartier
Coussin de Cartier

Rounding out the new 2022 releases are four new coloured satin dials for the Panthère de Cartier collection in shades of gold, plum, midnight blue and black, as well as a new iteration of the Ballon Bleu de Cartier watch in rose gold with a unique sunburst pattern and an alluring diamond arrangement on the dial.

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