History lesson Chanel fine jewellery

Chanel may well be known for its costume jewellery, and for forever immortalising a string of pearls as seemingly belonging to one fashion house, but there is more to its offering: fine jewellery, whose roots begin in 1932. Typically having shown her aforesaid costume pieces with collections up until this point, Gabrielle Coco Chanel debuted her first high jewellery collection, Bijoux de Diamants. 

She had been approached by the Union of Diamond Merchants to publicise their jewels during the economic slump; it was the time of the Great Depression. 

Exhibited at her private townhouse at 29 Faubourg Saint-Honore, the designs were presented on wax busts with curled lashes made to look surprisingly real to a backdrop of mirrors (also now synonymous with Chanel).  Chanel apparently enraged the jewellers of Place Vendome, the legendary and famous jewellery hub of Paris. Her exhibition was a sensation, running from November 1 to 15; and with invites sent out to just a select few

The pieces themselves were celestial in theme: a comet coiling around the neck, The Big Dipper as a pendant, open rings which sat “magically” between the fingers. Fringe necklaces, ribbon necklaces, they could be worn as tiaras too. Apparently Chanel had a dislike of clasps. These pieces were made with the intention of customisation and it was the first time a parure had been presented as a convertible set. 

The star-themed jewellery inspiration has been linked to a mosaic in the Aubazine abbey in which she stayed as a youth. Realised as it was in 1932, an advert for the jewellery at the time told of how Chanel had married “art and apparent casualness”, the jewels used in a way that had never been seen before. It was of course that signature down-dressing Chanel-style. 

“If I chose the diamond, it is because it represents the highest value in the most compressed form,” Chanel said in 1932. “I used my love of everything which glitters in an attempt to combine finery, elegance and fashion.” 

It was in 1993 that Chanel took its official step into Place Vendome to enter the fine jewellery world and did so with recreated sets of the real jewellery created in 1932. Shooting stars and comet necklaces shone once more. Tiaras, bows and ribbons, diamonds, the greatest care was taken to realise them, and a strong sense of emotion came with them. 

Come 1997, November 18, Chanel Joaillerie opened inside a mansion in Place Vendome opposite the Ritz. In contrast to the other jewellery houses at the address, Chanel is known for its elegance, sobriety and purity. “Luxury is not the opposite of poverty, it is the opposite of vulgarity,” Chanel has said. 

Collections would go on to include “Passages”, inspired by the pull of the planets, launched on the eve of the millennium in 1999. In 2001 came “5 Elements”, in honour of Chanel’s lucky number.

As well as, the No 5 Fine Jewellery collection, pictured here, which celebrates the 100th anniversary of the house’s iconic fragrance. Gold and diamonds were used to pay tribute to the lucky number as well as the shape of the bottle.