Gucci reveals Allegoria, its high jewellery collection for 2023

Revealed at its archive building in Florence, Gucci has launched its high jewellery for Summer 2023 entitled Allegoria. Inspired by the transformative power of nature, the collection is a sparkling romp through each of the four seasons

7 June 2023

By Kim Parker

Gucci launched its high jewellery for Summer 2023 in Florence today entitled Allegoria featuring oversize and spectacular carats of stones featuring opals, tourmalines and diamonds. Florence is the global headquarters of the brand and the city where the brand was founded by Guccio Gucci in 1921. It was fitting that their new high jewellery collection was presented in the city Gucci likes to call home.

It’s been roughly seven months since a new creative team was appointed at Gucci to head up its high jewellery collections and the Italian fashion house has finally revealed the first fruits of their labour: Allegoria.

Inspired by ‘nature’s glorious transformations and ephemeral beauty’, the collection envisions a metaphorical journey through the changing seasons, with shimmering chapters devoted to Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter.

Gucci Allegoria gemstone necklace
Gucci’s Allegoria collection is a glittering ode to the four seasons

Juicy-hued gemstones evoke the botanical hues of a fantastical garden – with spectacular carat weights and lighthearted, often surprising, colour combinations taking centre stage. In the chapter inspired by Spring, one stellar necklace showcases a whopping 161-carat cushion-cut pink tourmaline, ringed with white diamonds and colourful enamel and set on a chain with 72 fancy tourmalines, creating a spectacular rainbow-like effect. Elsewhere, a 226-carat leaf-green tourmaline from Brazil is nestled on the end of an openwork gold chain, punctuated with glistening baguette diamonds and star motifs, one of the house’s iconic emblems.

Gucci new high jewellery earrings
A new openwork floral motif can be seen throughout the collection, a nod to Gucci’s botanical silk scarves

Other symbols include bouquets of fanciful flowers, as featured on the first silk scarves created by Gucci for Princess Caroline of Monaco in the 1960s. In the Summer chapter, a golden mandarin garnet forms the centre of an elegant diamond bloom, which has been suspended from an openwork chain and set amongst carved emerald beads and drops for a luscious colour contrast. Indeed, plenty of richly-hued gemstones help evoke the height of the season’s heat – white gold earrings blaze with neon Paraiba tourmaline drops, rosy spinels shine out from a necklace studded with cheery yellow chrysoberyls and deep blue Tanzanites bring oceanic drama to a white gold openwork necklace.

Gucci Allegoria necklace
In the section devoted to Summer, bold gemstones like spinels and Paraiba tourmalines dominate

The Autumn chapter brings together stones of a much gentler persuasion, in muted tones of russet, apricot and saffron. Yellow gold lion head earrings bear an asymmetric arrangement of sunset-like tourmalines and diamonds, while another elaborate lacy collar features a copper coloured heart-shaped garnet alongside soft pink sapphires.

Gucci new high jewellery earrings
Gems with soft sunset colours take central stage in the Autumnal jewels

Cooler hues dominate the section inspired by Winter, with exceptional opals the absolute stars of this end-of-year show. For one magnificent necklace, glittering cabochons of snowy white opal (weighing a total 92.85 carats) set amidst icy white gold and edged with blue and white enamel to bring out their frosty undertones.

Gucci opal ring
Snowy whites and blues, like this amazing opal, feature in the section devoted to Winter

With Florence’s other name being the ‘City of Lillies’, the location couldn’t have been more perfect for Gucci to show off the latest high jewellery creations. If this eye-catching collection is to be believed, then all is still well in the glorious Gucci garden.

Like this? Read about Italian jeweller Bulgari’s high jewellery collection Mediterranea

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