What is rose gold and how is it made?

Rose gold is a coloured variation of gold, often noted for its antique charm owing to its warm pinkish tones. It was the subject of an in-depth report by The New Yorker in 2015 in which it is described as being “decadent. It is gold for people who have already had enough of gold”. Which certainly sounds very indulgent, and in recent years its popularity has grown.

Explaining that it is flattering to most skin tones – “a youthful-seeming blush is highlighted, or perhaps induced, by rose gold—the shade has spread to fashion, accessories, and beauty”, the story notes its popularity in recent years. Not only in jewellery but in iPhones and beyond.

It is thought its earliest known use was in the 19th Century, during Imperial Russia – apparently that is why it is also sometimes referred to as “Russian gold”. Carl Faberge, who was jeweller to the Czars, used it among his now iconic and famous ornamental Faberge Eggs. Yellow gold and copper were blended together. The resulting rose gold featured on the “Moscow Kremlin” egg, which had been commissioned by Nicholas II as a present for his wife, the Empress Alexandra. It was supposedly Faberge’s most expensive commission. The mix of alloys would become popular among jewellers.

Typically, it is made up of about 75 per cent gold and around 25 per cent copper – which is what gives it that redder shade; its distinct pink tone is thought contemporary and appealing. Shades can range from deep red – sometimes dubbed “red gold” – to a softish pink There may also be traces of metal, for example silver, added into the compound which will also impact its overall colour and shine. According to Sothebys, the true components of rose gold are approximately 75 per cent gold and 22.5 per cent copper with a small percentage of silver, which works to balance out the darkness of the copper. 

Rose gold was popular throughout much of the Victorian era among Europe and America and enjoyed a particular renaissance during the 1920s – with Cartier among the houses incorporating it into its designs. The years that followed, heavily impacted by the crash of 1929, saw it fall out of favour for platinum. But as World War II began, the use of platinum was restricted and rose gold became popular once more.

It is thought elegant, warm and feminine and in recent years has made for a contemporary alternative to gold in engagement rings. The French-based brand Le Gramme specialises in its own variation of rose gold and calls it red gold.