The origins of platinum

What is platinum, where it was discovered and how it became popular in modern jewellery and what it's best used for

Known by the Spanish as “platina”, meaning “little silver”, platinum has roots it’s thought as far back as 700 BCE – it has a very high melting point and is resistant to corrosion, all of this however made its presence into the jewellery world a much more belated affair.

For the Gem Society, Donald Clark writes that it is actually relatively modern and cites such examples as the Native Americans using small platinum decorative objects for centuries. But it remained unknown to Europeans and the Spanish encountered it in the New World. They believed it was “unripe gold” and so didn’t see a use in it.

Offering further explanation to its origins, Britannica notes how an Italian-French physician called Julius Caesar Scaliger seems to have discovered it between Darien and Mexico. Deposits were also found in Colombia, South Africa, Russia as well as Brazil, Peru and North America.

There is also some evidence to suggest that it was used in Ancient Egypt but it wasn’t until the 1700s or so that it would be discovered by various explorers and new ways of working with it had been developed. A silver-white ductile metal, it took some time to work out how it could then be worked into jewellery, such was its sturdiness. Today, it is a solid – if you’ll pardon the pun – choice for both engagement rings and wedding bands.

It has an association with the rich and famous – used and worn in jewellery during the Edwardian era, as well as the 1920s Art Deco period, and on the big screen. Greta Garbo often wore platinum jewellery, it has been noted, and among a Christie’s sale there has been an early 20th century sapphire and diamond cluster ring which was stated by the vendor as having been purchased at an auction of the star’s house contents.

As World War II approached, the US government declared that platinum could be used only as a strategic metal for warcraft and not jewellery. Rose gold became popular in its place though platinum was still popular even if one couldn’t get hold of it.

Platinum is a naturally occurring element and is recognisable by its silver colour, but is a lot rarer than gold. Notably it is highly un-reactive so is a very strong and solid metal and its scarcity contributes to it being the most expensive of the precious metals. Interestingly, it is also supposed to be a good choice for people who suffer from allergies.

Visually, its colour works very well with diamonds, a brilliant white which works to enhance the shine and clarity of the stone.