The heritage

Both watches were first seen the 1970s. This was the era when dress watches made way for the luxury sports watch. The Nautilus came first. It was designed by Gérald Genta in 1976, sketched on a restaurant napkin in five minutes. See our story here on 50 years of the Patek Philippe Nautilus. The porthole-shaped case, the horizontal embossed dial, the integrated bracelet, it was groundbreaking then, and today it’s one of the most desired sports watches on the market.

For more watch news read about the 7 best watches from Watches & Wonders.

Vacheron Constantin followed in 1977 with the 222, designed by Jorg Hysek, another celebrated watch designer of the era. Less celebrated than the Nautilus, the 222 was produced in tiny numbers and is now incredibly collectible. The modern Overseas, which was first launched in 1996 and substantially updated in 2016, is its spiritual successor. And at Watches & Wonders 2026, Vacheron unveiled the thinnest Overseas ever made. It’s a watch so slender it has totally changed the conversation about which of these two you should buy.

The design

The Nautilus is one of the most recognisable watches ever made. The porthole silhouette, the “ears” on either side of the case, the horizontally grooved dial hasn’t significantly altered since its launch, because it doesn’t need to. At 40mm it wears better expected, and the new 50th anniversary editions in white gold and platinum have stripped it back to its purest form. The new pieces show the hours and minutes only, there’s no date, no complications. Just Genta’s original design.

The Overseas is completely different. The Maltese cross, Vacheron’s signature motif, runs through every part of the watch, from the bezel shape to the bracelet links. At 41mm it’s slightly larger than the Nautilus, however the new ultra-thin version changes the character of the watch entirely. Where the standard Overseas has always felt solid and robust, the 2026 ultra-thin version is almost impossibly slender. It’s a watch that looks better in the metal than in any photograph.

The practicality

This is where the Overseas pulls ahead clearly. Vacheron’s quick-change strap system lets you swap between the metal bracelet, a leather strap, and a rubber strap without tools. The Overseas is also water resistant to 150 metres which is significantly more than the Nautilus’s 60 metres. If you want to actually wear the watch rather than worry about it, the Overseas in my opinion is the more practical choice, it’s a true watch for sport. And this is why they’ve put a lot of time into testing, the mountaineer Cory Richards, wears the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph ‘Everest’ and this gives the Overseas significant gravitas.

The Nautilus rewards a certain attitude toward wearing it, it’s a careful and considered watch but not for the pool. The Overseas doesn’t ask you to think about it.

The investment

This is where Patek pulls decisively ahead. The Nautilus is not just a watch it’s an asset class. When Patek discontinued the steel Reference 5711 in 2021, prices on the secondary market went to multiples of retail within weeks. The new 50th anniversary editions in white gold are already attracting serious collector interest.

The Overseas holds its value well but doesn’t generate the same secondary market frenzy. That’s actually an argument in its favour if you want to buy a watch to wear rather than a watch to trade. And for my money, if you’re going to buy and wear a watch, you need to love it first and foremost.

Which one?

If you want the icon, the watch that everyone in the room will recognise, that holds its value like nothing else, that represents the single most famous design in modern watchmaking, buy the Nautilus.

If you want the better watch to actually wear every day, that’s more versatile, more practical, technically more interesting in 2026 thanks to the new ultra-thin movement, and carrying the quiet confidence of a brand that’s been making watches since 1755, buy the Overseas.

I’ve tried both, and for my money I like the feeling of the Overseas, particularly the new slimmed down version. There’s no wrong answer. But if you want a watch that’s less of a statement and more about horological ‘in the know’ for me there’s no choice. I’d pick the Overseas.

Read more: Patek Philippe Nautilus at 50: the watch sketched on a napkin that nobody wanted and Vacheron Constantin unveil the thinnest Overseas watch ever made

Click here for the latest watch and jewellery news straight in your inbox.