Earlier this season, deep within a concrete bunker in Berlin, Cartier revealed its latest irreverent jewellery collection, Clash [Un]Limited.
The event began with a tour of the historic Boros Foundation (a former WWII air-raid bunker once used for ‘90s rave parties and as a cold storage unit, now the site of a modern art museum) and its internationally renowned contemporary art collection.
Guests were then treated to a private viewing of the dazzling new Clash de Cartier jewels, displayed alongside exquisite jewels from the maison’s own archive, to showcase how bold beads, voluminous spikes, and tough-looking studs have been a part of the house’s design codes for a century.
One vitrine housed a safety pin-shaped brooch, comprised of polished onyx and platinum, embellished with white diamonds and onyx beads, which would have appeared entirely at home on the leather jacket of a 1980s rock fan, but was created in 1920 for the Maharaja of Patiala. Nearby, a chunky silver bangle covered in ball bearing-like golden beads looked every inch a contemporary piece, but actually dated from 1940.
With its Clash[Un]Limited, an evolution of its Clash line which originally launched in 2019, Cartier continues to highlight its tantalisingly punky designs, this time in a luxurious capsule collection.
Cue display cases brimming with tactile new treasures. One voluminous pavé diamond and onyx cocktail ring bore a trio of purple amethyst spikes, like a mini mohawk. There were enormous between-the-finger-rings shaped like studs, crafted in white gold, onyx, or diamonds; and a reversible cuff bracelet, with white diamond spikes on one side and onyx studs on the other. Another articulated ring had pyramids of diamonds punctuated with onyx spikes, whilst a chic interpretation of a pocket jewel suspended similar spikes from a white gold chain.
There were also lustrous Tahitian pearls, arranged with onyx beads on an ear clip, worn on the inside of the ear (plus on a matching bracelet and ring), and an entire range of spiny rose gold pieces lined with smooth onyx beads for an alluring textural contrast.
With exaggerated dimensions and bold wearing options, this latest sensorial launch fuses the best of Cartier’s historic expertise with fresh design concepts. Nothing about it is dainty or delicate – these are chic statement pieces, created to surprise and provoke. No doubt they, too, will stand the test of time.
