The inimitable British designer, Hannah Martin shares what she’s learned after 20 years in business – check it out below
Blending influences from rock and punk music with sculptural silhouettes and fine craftsmanship, Hannah Martin’s androgynous jewels have been in the spotlight since their debut in 2005.
Since then, she’s launched ten collections, exhibited around the world and collaborated with Coldplay’s Guy Berryman.
Her new book, Iconoclast: A Jewellery Rebellion, charts her career over two decades, from the mosh pits of East London to the storied ateliers of Paris’ Place Vendôme.
Taken from Issue 15, Martin shares what she’s learned from 20 years in the jewellery game.
Who or what inspires you creatively?
Design ideas can come from all over the place. It may be at a gig, a gallery, or even just a conversation with someone that can lead me down a research rabbit hole [famously, her creative collaboration with Guy Berryman occurred after the pair met on a flight from Los Angeles to London]. I try to stay curious and aware, and to follow my gut whenever I feel that little thrill of excitement over something interesting.
How would you describe your personal style?
Punk + goth + gold.
Which books or movies are essential to you?
I’ve been obsessed with The Lost Boys since I was a small kid – it has had a serious impact on my personal style (it’s down to this film that I have only ever worn earrings in one ear. I so desperately wanted to be one of the cool vampires). I also read a lot, and DH Lawrence is the author I always go back to. His work re-grounds me.
Which pieces of jewellery can’t you live without?
My collection of big rings has become something of a style trademark. They are also my armour and talisman. I feel vulnerable without them.
What are the most important lessons you’ve learned from the past 20 years?
Important and tough lessons are often about the same thing. My top ones would be to feel ok with the unknown, to trust my gut, and not to get too comfortable.
What’s the best advice you’ve ever received?
My second-year tutor at Central St. Martins, Simon Fraser, was very influential in how I developed my work. He once told me, “You have the rest of your life to design jewellery, don’t have to throw everything into one piece.” Editing yourself as a designer, and knowing what to take away, is what differentiates being good from being great. It is also the hardest thing to do.
Where did the idea for the book come from?
It came from Helene Le Blanc, who has been a client, a supporter and a friend for 20 years. She has watched me through the highs and lows and not only had the idea for the book but took care of me through the whole process.
How has the industry changed over the last two decades?
The biggest change has been surrounding the idea of gender. When I started out, the term ‘gender-fluid’ did not exist, but that is what has been personally important to me from the very beginning. No one really knew what to do with me or my work. That has definitely changed. That, and the price of gold!
What’s next for you?
I can’t talk about it just yet, but there are a couple of cool, music-based collaborative projects lined up for 2026.
Check out Issue 15, Out Now
More like this? Meet the jeweller loved by Zendaya, Rihanna and Beyoncé: Suhani Parekh from MISHO Designs and see Former dancer Dries Criel channel his passion for movement and history into covetable jewels.
