When it comes to iconic figures in hip-hop jewellery, one name stands out above the rest: Jacob Arabo. Nicknamed “Jacob the Jeweller” by Biggie Smalls, he has become a household name in the jewellery industry. But there is one iconic product that is synonymous with horology in hip-hop: the Jacob & Co Five Time Zone watch.
How It All Started
Founded in 1996, Jacob & Co. became known for its unique approach to jewellery design. The brand gained popularity after creating the iconic Jesus Piece for Biggie Smalls, establishing itself as the go-to jeweller for hip-hop artists. Since then, Jacob’s name has been mentioned in over 100 songs.
However, Jacob’s creativity didn’t just end at jewellery. He was one of the first jewellers to set aftermarket diamonds into luxury watches, a style now widely known as “bussdowns”. His passion for horology led him to launch his own line in 2002. Since then, Jacob & Co. have created countless timepieces, but it all started with the iconic Five Time Zone watch.
The Five Time Zone Watch
Although his love for jewellery was evident, Jacob’s heart was still drawn to watchmaking. Determined to bring this dream to life, he took a trip to Switzerland in search of a manufacturer, but his leap of faith was met with dismissal from the Swiss vendors. The story could have ended there, but Jacob persisted and decided to start small with a quartz watch.
Understanding the needs of his clientele, Jacob set out to create a watch that suited their global lifestyles. He drew inspiration from a watch his father had gifted him at age 13. Jacob recalled, “It had two time zones, two movements, and a map of the world in the middle. That’s the original inspiration that led me to create the Five Time Zone. I still have it.”
This birthed a watch that displayed the time zones of major cities around the world while tracking the home time at the centre of the dial. Watches with multiple time zones were not unusual, with examples such as the Patek Philippe World Time and the Rolex GMT widely available. However, Jacob’s spin on it made this concept digestible to a new audience.
With the product in hand, all it needed was a push, and who better to provide that than Naomi Campbell? In a 2002 photoshoot for ‘Elle’ magazine, she posed with a Five Time Zone on her wrist.
Its first notable public appearance came when Jay-Z wore it during his 2003 Madison Square Garden concert. With Naomi and Jay being among the biggest trendsetters in the industry, it’s no surprise that many others, including 50 Cent, David Beckham, and Busta Rhymes, followed suit.
At that time, it seemed like everything Jacob touched turned to gold – quite literally. Retailing at $5,500, the Five Time Zone watch was no exception. It quickly became a major success, and according to Jacob Arabo, over 300,000 pieces have been sold.
Over the years, the watch has managed to maintain cultural relevance, with Drake, Romeo Beckham, and Maluma spotted wearing one more recently. However, this relevance has been upheld not only by celebrity endorsements, but also through collaborations.
Collaborations
The COVID-19 pandemic created many interesting things (to say the least), but one of them was the Jacob & Co. Supreme Five Time Zone watch. Supreme is the largest streetwear brand in the world and was recently sold for $1.5 billion in 2024.
Unlike its previous variants, this watch features only four time zones, replacing one with the Supreme logo in the top right corner. It was available in both 40mm ($12,000) and 47mm ($14,000) variants, paired with a red or black alligator strap. There’s one more detail you might have missed: just above the 6-hour marker is the phrase “Fuck Em,” adding an extra Supreme touch. This collaboration exceeded both brands’ expectations, selling out in just 4.6 seconds.
Another notable collaboration was with BAPE, released in pink, blue, and green. This version of the Five Time Zone is among the rarest variants and was only made available to BAPE members.
The watch is not without its criticisms. Many dismiss it as just an overpriced quartz watch, and while that may be accurate at face value, this critique overlooks its deeper significance. For young hip-hop fans, it served as an aspirational piece and became a symbol of success. It represents a pivotal moment in the early days of hip-hop culture. Most importantly, it embodies the journey of a young immigrant boy from Uzbekistan who dared to challenge the Swiss watch industry. It stands as proof that dreams do come true.
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