Jessica McCormack, known for her signature Gypset collection of hoop earrings and featuring drop diamonds or gemstones, has had an aesthetic – antique, diamonds, vintage – that has always leant itself to the bridal category. But now she’s getting serious about it and branching out with a specific collection of engagement rings and the scheduled opening of a dedicated bridal suite.
“You’re talking to potentially different people, young couples in love,” she says. “So I’m super excited and have been thinking a lot about, well, if I was going to get married again.”
She’s also been focusing on her signatures, a core collection of what she’s terming “JM Uniform”, typically the kinds of pieces she wears day to day.
The designer, who hails from New Zealand and is long an expert on diamonds, is based in townhouse-set shop in London’s Mayfair. It’s now been over a decade since the brand launched and seven years, she thinks, since the move into the central London Carlos Place townhouse.
From the outside, it is grand and imposing and sits opposite The Connaught Hotel. Inside, there is an appointment salon and showroom with glass cases of her little gems. Up the stairs, you’ll find library den full of books and inspiration, and a very inviting sofa. But back down in the basement, the workshop lies. McCormack likens it to a bike workshop or a mechanic’s workshop – just on a much smaller scale.
It was 13 years ago that her career in jewellery-making began. Her father was an antiques dealer and auctioneer and McCormack would find and buy old pieces of jewellery and then turn them into something else. Heirloom-inspired designs have been a signature ever since.
It’s something that, over the past year, she has found herself doing more and more – clients were bringing in a lot of old Victorian brooches and wanting to have them made into something new. For her, it’s easy to spot what can and can’t be done. Earrings and rings are typically good upgrades. But sometimes, it’s just not worth it, she says.
Another industry secret she shares: “Jewellery only becomes beautiful at the last shine and polish.” And at her London townhouse, she innovates with heritage materials and processes. Having everything under one roof also means she has more freedom to be creative. “We can just try out lots of different things,” she says. “I’ll use clients as guinea pigs, like ‘Hey, look at this cool thing, you want to make it something?!’ You have to have a feeling and go for it.”
It’s the crafting process that’s so important. And she approaches everything with the same creative process. Which is perhaps partly why she isn’t one for saving jewellery treasures for best. She thinks you should wear them and enjoy them.
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