Even if you don’t know the names of the artist or songs, chances are the sounds of Afrobeats have graced your ears, causing you to tap a foot or two step. But Afrobeats is more than just a genre of music, it’s a whole movement where jewellery and style play a role. Today, the genre has gained global recognition, but it all started in West Africa with the pioneer Fela Kuti.
Fela
Born in 1938 to civil rights activists Funmilayo and Israel Ransome-Kuti, Fela Anikulapo-Kuti created his own unique sound called Afrobeat. It was almost as if he was destined for fame, with parents who were prominent figures in Nigeria and a grandfather widely recognized for integrating the Yoruba language into Christian hymns. These influences shaped Fela’s style when he took to the stage. His sound was an blend of traditional Yoruba music, Ghanaian highlife, salsa and many other genres.
Fela’s lyrics were social commentaries, often exploring themes of pan-Africanism and anti-colonialism. These ideals were mirrored in his choice of jewellery, as he avoided Western styles in favour of traditional African pieces. His topless stage performances accentuated his layered chains and beads, making them a focal point and a topic of conversation after shows. These pieces were believed to hold power and deeper meaning, so much so, that during times of adversity he turned to jewellery for spiritual protection.
In 1977, the Nigerian military raided Fela Kuti’s home, the Kalakuta Republic, resulting in the tragic death of his mother. His conflict with the Government is well documented and Fela sought protection through amulets and chains blessed by spiritual leaders. These pieces were believed to bring strength and good fortune, acting as a display of his faith in the spiritual power rooted in African traditions.
Despite the naysayers, Fela would only continue to grow earning the nickname “African Elvis”. It’s no surprise that admirers came flocking in the dozens. He had a total of 28 wives, 27 of which he married simultaneously in 1978 to mark the anniversary of the attack on the Kalakuta Republic. His partners frequently brought him gifts in the form of jewellery, which were added to his collection. However, this larger-than-life persona ultimately led to his demise. Fela passed away in 1997, and while various theories circulated about the cause, the official cause of death was AIDS-related complications.
Almost everything Fela did was very intentional, and jewellery was no exception. His style went beyond mere adornment and was a means of self expression and spiritual protection.
The genre eventually evolved from Afrobeat to Afrobeats in the late 2000s. Artists like D’banj, Sarkodie, and Fuse ODG gained global recognition with this new sound but failed to replicate Fela’s level of success. That was until the mid-2010s when a new class of artists was born. This generation was lead by Burna Boy, Wizkid, and Davido the Afrobeat’s equivalent of Drake, Kendrick and Cole.
Burna
Burna Boy was heavily influenced by Fela, often interpolating and sampling much of his music. The two had a familial connection as Burna Boys maternal Grandfather, Benson Idonije, served as Fela Kuti’s manager in his early career. This influence also extended to jewellery. In 2019, Burna commissioned DJ NU Kidd to create a diamond pendant of Fela Kuti, capturing the iconic pose of Fela with his hands raised.
Over the years, Burna’s jewellery style evolved, and he has formed a strong partnership with London jeweller A Jewellers. Together, they have created many iconic designs that not only compete for the best pendants in Africa, but also on a global scale. The duo broke the internet in 2023 with Burna Boy’s $1 million ODG pendant, which featured over 100 GIA-certified VVS stones. It would only be a few months before Burna Boy was back for another piece this time a “7G” pendant with 350 carats of diamonds.
Many of his jewellery pieces also act as tributes to loved ones who have passed away. The ODG pendant features an image of his late friend Virgil Abloh, fashion designer and founder of Off-White. This theme of remembrance continued with his memorial tennis pendant for Indian artist Sidhu Moose Wala.
Burna also commissioned a letter pendant spelling out “Gambo” for his childhood best friend, Gabriel Sarankuma, who passed away. He was full of smiles while placing the chain around the neck of his football idol, Thierry Henry, saying this was the best gift he could give Gambo. This wasn’t the first time Burna’s jewellery paid tribute to his friend. In 2020, his then-girlfriend, Stefflon Don, worked with A Jewellers to create a memorial pendant with diamond wings and a picture Gabriel in the centre.
A Jewellers went the extra mile creating a jewellery box with paintings of his friends. They have become one of the most iconic artist-jeweller duos, creating many unforgettable pieces with likely more to come. But Burna is not the Afrobeats artist to visit A Jewellers, Wizkid is also a frequent customer.
Wizkid
A frequent theme in Afrobeats is faith and gratitude to God which Wizkid constantly explores in his music. His jewellery creations with A Jewellers are also a display of his beliefs. While religious inspired pendants are common in the jewellery world, Wizkid’s pieces add a twist to these conventional designs. First, there was the custom Jesus pieces flooded with diamonds and set with emeralds for the eyes. However, arguably their most impressive creation is a cross chain set with 120-carats of diamonds.
Wizkid’s creativity does not end at music, he has also designed some of his own pendants brought to life by US jeweller Elliante. The star of the show is a diamond kite-shaped pendant with a chain that combines various stones. In an interview with Shopsydoo, he teased an upcoming jewellery line, revealing that this pendant is just the first of six pieces he has in the works.
Davido
Much like any genre of music, Afrobeats is not without its rivalries. Another contender for the genre’s top spot is Davido who has an impressive jewellery game. Similar to Wizkid, Davido’s collection features a unique Jesus piece crafted by London jeweller VC GOT YOU, set with 40 carats of round coloured diamonds and 2 carats of emeralds.
Davido’s jewellery often has deep personal meaning. To mark the release of his Timeless album, he commissioned London-based jeweller Local Kettle Brothers to bring the album cover to life. This piece features a circular design with an hourglass at its centre, where floating diamonds replace the traditional sand.
Davido’s sentimental jewellery includes a tribute to his late son Ifeanyi, who tragically passed away in 2022. In his memory, Gabriel Jacobs from Rafaello & Co created a memorial pendant depicting Ifeanyi’s face.
Rema
Rema has also bought his album cover to life through jewellery. Although not without controversy his Rave and Roses album was a huge success achieving global recognition. Alongside A Jewellers they created a pendant called the “Ornament of Ravery”. The piece itself features an array of different gemstones and materials with A Jewellers saying “this is what it looks like when two geniuses come together to make artwork”.
But the duo were not done there. Playing on the theme of the anti hero in Batman they created a bat pendant with VVS diamonds and 520 carats of emeralds. Rema has often been vilified in the media for his use of bats but attempted to clear this up saying “In Benin city when you look up at the sky in the evening all you see is bats flying … a constant reminder of where I’m from”.
Similar to Batman, Rema believes himself to be the hero of his city, Benin. His good deeds have publicised all over social media such as giving a church 105 million Naira (£50,000). However the court of public opinion seems to maintain there stance. It seems he has lived long enough to become a villain, a very fitting piece.
The quality of music will always be the most important thing in any genre but jewellery has become an integral part to afrobeat’s artist image. We look forward to seeing what pieces will come next for Afrobeats artists.
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