Timeless as they are, pearls are having a revival. Most recently, you may have noticed a specific pearl choker that’s doing the rounds on social media, spotted on the necks of so many famous influencers and celebrities it’s been dubbed the TikTok Necklace.
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The design in question is Vivienne Westwood’s Bas Relief Choker. It features three hand-knotted rows of pearls and is set with Westwood’s Swarovski crystal-encrusted Orb logo at its centre.
The original design debuted as a single strand in the late 1980s as part of the late designer’s Harris Tweed Fall 1987 runway collection. It was later updated to a triple strand for Westwood’s Portrait collection in 1990. Today, the TikTok Necklace is a staple of the A-list – Rihanna, Dua Lipa, and Bella Hadid are just a few of its fans.
The TikTok pearl necklace’s most viral celebrity appearance came during King Charles III’s coronation back in May 2023, when Katy Perry wore a three-strand pearl choker set with Westwood’s Swarovski crystal-encrusted Orb logo at its centre to the Westminster Abbey ceremony. Machine Gun Kelly also wore a single-strand version of the necklace just below the collar of a white button-up shirt that same month as he attened the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue release party in New York with Megan Fox.
But why has this particular necklace gained such a cult following? Perhaps it’s the pearl’s universal appeal. It’s been revitalised by the likes of Simone Rocha and a whole host of independent jewellery brands. Mikimoto, Éliou, Completedworks and Pacharee are all making pearls more accessible to the world with their covetable, boundary pushing designs.
Or perhaps its present day renaissance may come from a more unexpected source – namely Japanese anime. The currently trending manga Nana, adapted into an anime series from 2006 to 2007, heavily promotes Westwood’s Orb design. Its author, Ai Yazawa, a former fashion student, was charmed by the British designer’s punk roots, sparking a craze for Westwood’s jewellery with the show’s cult following. During the mid 2000s, Westwood even took advantage of this fanfare and collaborated with Nana on advertisements featured in the popular Japanese punk fashion magazine Kera.
Whatever the reason, the British design house has certainly taken note of the piece’s surging popularity. Vivienne Westwood, currently helmed by an in-house team, updated the pearl choker for their Fall/Winter 2024 collection with a yellow gold Orb pendant, studded with white crystals and strung with yellowish freshwater pearls. Previously, the brand had introduced an even larger Orb pendant, elevated with cascading layers of pearls and a youthful charm for its Spring/Summer 2022 collection.
Blending tradition with a dashing of punk, it’s no surprise the style has spawned a new wave of Gen-Z fans. Adding the right zhush to any outfit, the Vivienne Westwood TikTok necklace is an accessory that is sure to stand the test of time.
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